It has been just over a year since my second stroke. My cadence has improved from 60 to above 80 without having my feet strapped in. I had been using a Saris FLUID2 that had too much resistance for the tight gearing on my Bianchi road racer even in the granny gear and so I switched to my mountain bike with easier gearing. In the meantime I found a good deal on a Saris MAG trainer with adjustable resistance that I can use with my Bianchi.
When the snow melts and it is warm enough to ride my mountain bike outside, I will mount the Bianchi on the MAG trainer with the hope that eventually I can get strong enough to push the tight gearing on the road.
BTW, this was today’s ride. I added s speed sensor but I don’t know what all the numbers mean and I have not done any calibration. Frankly I am afraid to push my limits without a heart monitor.
Following my stroke, I had to wear a heart monitor for two months but it did not show any concern. Mind you, I did not do anything strenuous then. I wonder if an Apple Watch would be a good compliment to TrainerDay or if I should consider something else.
If you want accuracy, then go for a chest strap. I’m going to respond later on some of your other data questions. If you want daily monitoring and don’t mind charging a lot, then an Apple Watch is okay. I have Apple and Garmin, and I don’t like wearing any watch unless something is really going on.
So it seems likely that have the wrong virtual profile selected. I’m assuming at a low heart rate, you do not go 30 kph on flat ground. If you believe you do. Let me know. below is instructions to fix the first problem, of too much power, too much speed.
You can see that on the Connections tab. You click here and see the list.
I don’t understand. First off, I replaced the FLUID2 with a Saris MAG that has less resistance and so run it in a higher gear. I’ve not counted the teeth on the crank and rear sprocket nor measured the wheel circumference to calculate the distance/speed for accuracy. Both sensors simply count revolutions which is why I asked about where to set wheel/tire size on my MTB(26 x 2.125) and later when I will switch to my Bianchi sew-ups.
In settings, under “virtual power curve”, I have it set to “generic trainer”. I tried to browse the list of options but the list keeps resetting before I can scroll to the bottom. I have not seen the Saris MAG on the list but even if I did, it has 5 settings of variable resistance.
I ordered a Bontrager ANT+/BLE Softstrap Heart Rate Belt online and hope to have in about a week.
WRT the 30km speed being measured by the sensor, AFAIK the sensor just counts revolutions and your software hard codes the wheel circumference used to calculate the the speed. Watts and not the speed should be based on the setting for virtual power. I could count the teeth to calculate the speed at a given cadence.
Yeah we convert speed to power so you would need to find out your power curve for your trainer. Then find one of our existing trainers that matches yours. This takes some effort. Our system is all based on power so knowing your speed does not help. Our system does not work how you are imagining it does.
You should not assume what I deduce and what I imagine. The two known data points in the trifecta are cadence and speed. The third (unknown) is the resistance which varies with what gear ratio is chosen. While the gear ratio can be accurately calculated, the resistance curve varies by trainer model.
The wife’s Saris FLUID2 leaked out the oil so I never got to experience the original resistance curve before refilling it. The fluid dynamics of the replacement oil may well be different due to cavitation at higher speeds.
My Saris MAG has less resistance but feels more linear. None the less, I surmise the watts are miscalculated using the FLUID2 profile and don’t know if there is a profile with a better match. In trying to browse the list, it refreshes before I reach the end.
All that is moot however with how I only use the “Free Ride” for 20 minutes while I try to maintain a higher cadence in the same gear while gauge how hard I breathe. Adding HR should be measurable metric.
I could not even guess what my HR was/is since I cannot feel it beating in my chest possibly due to the Nifedipine I stopped taking on March 26th. The only time I check my HR (below 60) is at rest when I take my blood pressure.
After my stroke last March, I was put on Crestor which I stopped taking last June as it had a devastating impact on my muscles.
This may, or may not, work out the same way for you: after having spent a few months concentrating more on my HR in my training, I can often pretty accurately gauge where it is without looking at the number.
It isn’t about feeling it beating in my chest, it is more holistic than that.
That falls apart a bit towards the top end of the range, but in the low and mid range, I am within a couple of bpm more often than I am further off than that.
So below you can see our power curves, you should try
TACX SATORI SETTING 6 and the result is your workouts will be more like 50-75w is my guess if you are trying to keep your HR where you are not breathing hard.
When the cadence is measuring 80, the speed measures 30km/h and the power measures 150W. This is in the same gear selection and the highest resistance setting of the prior results.
By comparison the following is the TACX SATORI SETTING 6 curve.
It’s been a long Winter which is not over yet. We got almost a foot of snow this week. I don’t have a computer on my MTB and haven’t rode my road bike that has a computer in decades.
